As Gareth Keogh puts it “Cortese should ‘sing’. And if it doesn’t, it’s not worth bothering with.” That’s exactly what we got with the wines of Marco Bergaglio. After having tasted 25 different Gavis from five different winemakers over two days, it was Marco’s that hit the high-notes with ease. Gorgeous lemon and lime flavours, tongue teasing spritz (petillance) and remarkable refreshment greeted our palates. Quite simply, his wine sang. Crucially, also, Marco’s vineyards sit on the hillsides. In the tug-of-war between the cold Alpine and warm Mediterranean influences on Piedmont, his grapes receive more sunshine than down on the flats. He refuses to use chemicals on the vines as he believes this would just be an unnecessary barrier between the wine and its origin. He hand-picks and sorts the grapes and judiciously utilizes lees-contact to give his wines ‘fatness’.